India (Page 3: Mamallapuram)

November 1994


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58 km south of Madras (Chennai), this remarkable site was previously known as Mahabalipuram.  The current name honors Narasimhavarman Pallavamalla I, who ruled from 630 - 668 AD and was responsible for most of its construction.  The site encompasses 14 cave temples, 9 stone shrines in the shape of chariots, 3 stone temples, and 4 sculptured relief stone panels.

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Descent of the Ganga (Arjuna's Penance) - this rock sculpture measures 29m long by 7m wide and shows animals, gods, and saints watching the descent of the river Ganga from the Himalayas.

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The Valayankuttai ratha (stone temple).

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Krishna's Butterball, a precariously perched boulder which may be a remnant from construction of the site.

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The Dharmaraja cave temple.  Inside all the cave temples are elaborate stone carvings.

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The Isvara Temple, or Old Lighthouse, dedicated to the god Siva.

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The view from atop the Isvara Temple overlooks a broad and fertile plain.

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Detail of the stone carving in the cave temples.  The site contains some of the finest examples of Pallava stone carving.

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More stone carving.  The elephant in the carvin is Ganesh, god of wealth and bringer of prosperity.

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The front of the Mahishasuramardini Mandapa (mid-7C), named after the mother goddess Durga.

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The Pancha Pandava consist of five monolithic temples sculpted out of one rock in the mid-7C.

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Another aspect of the Pancha Pandava (Five Rathas).

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This side of the Five Rathas shows the amazing stone carving.

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Nearby is the site of another attraction, but first you must escape the advances of trinket sellers.  Fortunately, as I arrived their attention was diverted by an approaching bus.

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The Shore Temple lies about 1km away, and was built at the end of the 7C.  It lies on a spit of land which extends some 50m into the sea.

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Detail f the interior of the Shore Temple.  It is unusual in that it contains shrines to both Siva and Vishnu.

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This boy named Abdullah claimed to speak Arabic in addition to three European and two Indian languages.  I was only able to verify his abilities in English and Spanish.

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In the vicinity of Mamallapuram are some pristine and uncrowded beaches; this one is off the highway back to Madras.

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Map courtesy of Mapquest.

Relative position of the state of Tamil Nadu.