India (Page 5: Fatehpur Sikri)

November 1994


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Just 37km west of Agra, Fatehpur Sikri seems centuries distant in time, being in an almost perfect state of preservation from its origins.  It was built by the Mughal emperor Akbar following his conquest ("Fatehpur" = city of victory) of the region of Gujarat in 1573, and served as the imperial capital until 1585, when Lahore (now in Pakistan) was chosen.  Legend also claims he built the city in honor of a sage who correctly foretold that one of his wives would produce three sons.  The city covers an area of roughly 5km, and rates as one of the most stunning achievements of the Mughal period on the subcontinent.

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The journey from Agra passes through countless small villages which are straight from another era.  Here cow dung cakes dry in the sun; these are a traditional and ready source of fuel in much of rural India.

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Buland Darwaza, one entrance to the central square of the city, which is in fact the courtyard of the Jami Masjid (Friday Mosque), the largest in India.

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The Buland Darwaza (Magnificent Gate), viewed from the interior of the Jami Masjid courtyard.

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Tomb of the Royal Ladies, part of the Jami Masjid complex, built in 1571-2.

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Colonnades line the northern side of the Jami Masjid courtyard.  The courtyard measures 132m x 111m.

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This man is standing in front of the Tomb of Sheikh Salim Chisti, built of solid white marble and completed in 1580.  The shrine is on the spot of the saint's hermitage, and is a focal point for worship by both Muslim and Hindu women hoping for the same miracle of an heir which was Akbar's fortune.

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Lattice screens of solid marble surround Sheikh Salim Chisti's tomb.

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Detail of a marble screen.  Honestly one of the most astonishing things I have ever seen in my travels.

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In the Jami Mosque courtyard looking south to the Buland Darwaza (Magnificent Gate).

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View of the King's Gate, on the east side of the Jami Mosque courtyard.

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The remains of a caravanserai are situated between the Jami Masjid and the Royal Palace.

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The Treasury, one of the structures inside the Royal Palace compound.

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Elephant Gate, the principal entrance into the Royal Palace complex.  It is next to the caravanserai where visitors would have stayed.

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The Diwan-i-Kas (Hall f Private Audience), where Akbar would greet visitors and spend many hours in discussion with Christians, Jains, Buddhists, and others.

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The Anup Talao, or central pool of the Royal Palace around which numerous pavilions are grouped.  The view is toward the imperial bedroom.

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The Panch Mahal, on the north side of the Anup Talao, which per my sources may have been used as a "pleasure palace".

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Several subsidiary palaces together comprise the Royal Palace complex.  This may be the interior courtyard of the Jodhbai Palace.

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Map courtesy of Mapquest.