Russia (Samara)

Formerly known as Kuibyshev, Samara was a closed city in Soviet times until 1992.  This is a view of the main street, looking toward Revolution Square.

View of the German Lutheran church (17C), a place of worship for the large ethnic German population which inhabited the Volga region prior to WWII.

Scene on a side street.  The style, typical in this part of Russia, is of wood construction (the better to insulate against the extreme climate), with elaborate fretwork.

More examples of the local architecture. Appearances to the contrary, there did seem to be a minor building boom of sorts underway, with much new construction (much of it in the remarkably poor taste of "New Russians") near the city center.

View of the Opera House.  This Stalinist pile was built in the 1930s at the cost of leveling an Orthodox church which stood on the site.  It was the scene of May Day parades and similar public events in Soviet times.

Stalin's bunker.  Appearances notwithstanding, this is no ordinary building.  Built in 1940-1, this was envisioned as the prospective nerve center of the Soviet government in the event the Nazis succeeded in capturing Moscow during their siege of the city. Stalin's command center lies a full 100m underground.

Interior view of Stalin's bunker.  Even at this level (100m down), the Great Man's paranoia is evident, with false doors in every room.  The bunker was never used by Stalin, although Samara was the seat of Soviet government from 1941-3.

Portrait of "Uncle Joe" in the local art museum.  It is of note that Shostakovich performed his most important symphony before Stalin in Samara in 1941 (which also was featured in the museum).

Inside the main market.  Hard to convey the thrill of buying fresh Beluga caviar at a price roughly 10% the cost in the author's home country (not to mention the numerous other treats such as Georgian wines and excellent local produce)!

A cruise with FSVC colleagues on the Volga, complete with local treats like caviar, beer, and vodka.  These folks know how to enjoy life!

FSVC colleague Paulina and her husband Konstantin.

Caution - appearances notwithstanding, beer, vodka, and Georgian wine definitely don't mix well the following day!

The author, in a rare photo of himself (probably appearing soon in a Web page near you!).

The "Lenin Temple".  A relic of an obsequiousness prevalent in Soviet times, and a reflection of the extent to which communism became a religion.  Now used as a local history museum, the main hall and bust of Lenin and associated "altar" is still intact.

View of the beach along the embankment of the Volga River.  The beautiful beach stretches for some ways along the river, and is popular among Samarans on hot summer days.

Another view along the Volga embankment.  Our hosts assured us that the river freezes solid in winter, usually until well into April!

The Volga embankment, a perfect place for a cold pivo (beer) on a hot summer afternoon!  The lack of quality restaurants along the embankment is apparently explained by the short season.

Our personable translator and superlative tour guide, Euphym (Yefim).  A veritable expert on all things Samaran.

Here I am teaching a seminar at the Central Bank on a project sponsored by FSVC.

The seminar participants - are they happy because the seminar is over?!

Sunset along the Volga River embankment.

Another day ends.

A Samaran sunset along the Volga.  So who needs the tropics?!

Where is Samara?  Map courtesy of Lonely Planet.